Written by one of the most revered surfers of his generation, Gerry Lopez's Surf Is Where You Find It is a collection of stories about a lifetime of surfing. But more than that, it is a collection of stories about the lessons learned from surfing. It presents 38 stories about those who have been influential in the sport — surfing anytime, anywhere, and in any way. Lopez, an innovator in stand-up-paddle (one of the fastest growing water sports in the world), now shares his stories ...

Written by one of the most revered surfers of his generation, Gerry Lopez's Surf Is Where You Find It is a collection of stories about a lifetime of surfing. But more than that, it is a collection of stories about the lessons learned from surfing. It presents 38 stories about those who have been influential in the sport — surfing anytime, anywhere, and in any way. Lopez, an innovator in stand-up-paddle (one of the fastest growing water sports in the world), now shares his stories ...

Chasing a dream is never easy, but if you go far enough, it will set you free.Captain Liz Clark spent her youth dreaming of traveling the world by sailboat and surfing remote waves. When she was 22, she met a mentor who helped turn her desire into reality. Embarking on an adventure that most only fantasize about, she set sail from Santa Barbara, California, as captain of her 40-foot sailboat, Swell, headed south in search of surf, self, and the wonder and learning ...

“A journalist, photographer, and surfer, Yogis began the life of a roving seeker his junior year of high school, when he ran away from his Sacramento, Calif. home to learn how to surf in Hawaii. His subsequent travels include a handful of prime surfing spots, but Yogis's more arresting journey is spiritual, taking him to monasteries in France and Berkley, Calif., and deep into the living tradition of Zen Buddhism. Captured here in short chapters and wonderful, visual prose, Yogis's coming-...

Welcome to Paradise, Now Go to Hell, is surfer and former war reporter Chas Smith's wild and unflinching look at the high-stakes world of surfing on Oahu's North Shore—a riveting, often humorous, account of beauty, greed, danger, and crime.For two months every winter, when Pacific storms make landfall, swarms of mainlanders, Brazilians, Australians, and Europeans flock to Oahu's paradisiacal North Shore in pursuit of some of the greatest waves on earth for surfing's Triple...

Jay Moriarity was a big wave surfer whose positive spirit, relentless dedication, and respect for his sport earned him the admiration of the entire surfing world. Although, he lost his life just one day before his 23rd birthday, he is still an inspiration to not just the surfing community, but to countless people that he met in his life. This book examines his life, but more importantly, it also examines Mavericks and surfing; to understand his life, it's important to understand ...

The long-awaited autobiography of one of Australia's surfing legends.On the surface he was Tom Carroll, dreamer, cheeky grommet, brilliant surfer, Australian sporting hero, fitness fanatic, businessman, family man, big wave charger. Inside turned the terrible wheel of drug addiction, part family curse, part legacy of the footloose surf culture he’d done so much to legitimise. Tom’s family and friends struggled with him, kept his secrets, and looked on in anger and ...

A finalist for the PEN Center USA Award for NonfictionWelcome to Paradise, Now Go to Hell, is surfer and former war reporter Chas Smith’s wild and unflinching look at the high-stakes world of surfing on Oahu’s North Shore—a riveting, often humorous, account of beauty, greed, danger, and crime.For two months every winter, when Pacific storms make landfall, swarms of mainlanders, Brazilians, Australians, and Europeans flock to Oahu’s paradisiacal North Shore in pursuit of som...

In his own words, Occy tells the complete, remarkable story of his spectacular rise, terrifying fall and miraculous rebirth.'Occy was always a missile going hyperspeed, about to blow up at any moment. - it's true of so many highly intelligent or gifted people . . . All of his passion was put into his surfing.' Kelly Slater, eight-time world championChild star at sixteen, ranked third in the world at seventeen, winner of the Pipeline Masters at nineteen - Ma...

On the Road meets Endless Summer as Tim Baker, bestselling author of Occy, High Surf and Bustin' Down the Door, embarks on the classic surfing road trip around Australia.All surfers dream of shedding responsibilities and answering the siren's call of ocean swells. Formost, it is an ideal that recedes as age advances - as family, career and provider fatigue threatens to overwhelm the wanderlust of youth. But what if you could defy the slow march of age? Shelve all your worldl...

This in-depth, photo-packed look at the history and culture of surfers is "meticulously researched, smartly written . . . required reading" ( Outside Magazine).Matt Warshaw knows more about surfing than any other person on the planet. After five years of research and writing, Warshaw, a former professional surfer and editor of Surfing magazine, has crafted an unprecedented, definitive history of the sport and the culture it has spawned.Wit...

Two surfing legends in one book!Occy is the magically talented child star who crashed and burned, then miraculous crawled from the wreckage to claim his destiny.Mick is the ferociously determined, disciplined athlete, who overcame personal tragedy and devastating injury to pursue his dreams.Australian surfing has produced many great champions, but few have overcome so much, and inspired so many, as Mark Occhilupo and Mick Fanning. Though dramatically contrasting cha...