Surf legend Ian "Kanga" Cairns has an even bigger story to tell than the giant waves he rode in Hawaii. "KANGA" is a sports biography, adventure and surf history wrapped into two volumes. In the 1970s Cairns and pioneering professional surfers dreamed of being recognized as legitimate sportsmen. In these books they tell how it became reality. Volume 1 is set in Australia, South Africa and Hawaii's awesome North Shore. Cairns features with other surf legends, heroes and hard men in conflict...

Ian “Kanga” Cairns tells how his dream for surfing to be recognized as a legitimate professional sport became reality. This is one of surfing’s biggest stories now told in two separate volumes. Volume 1 is set in Australia, South Africa and Hawaii’s awesome North Shore. Cairns features with other surf legends, heroes and hard men in conflict. Together they provide a detailed narrative of surfing’s transformation as it evolves from the drug-infused hippy era of the late 1960s to a ...

A finalist for the PEN Center USA Award for NonfictionWelcome to Paradise, Now Go to Hell, is surfer and former war reporter Chas Smith’s wild and unflinching look at the high-stakes world of surfing on Oahu’s North Shore—a riveting, often humorous, account of beauty, greed, danger, and crime.For two months every winter, when Pacific storms make landfall, swarms of mainlanders, Brazilians, Australians, and Europeans flock to Oahu’s paradisiacal North Shore in pursuit of som...

This biography of legendary Hawaiian surfer Eddie Aikau is "a homespun homage to a modern-day folk hero" ( Outside Magazine).In the 1970s, a decade before bumper stickers and T-shirts bearing the phrase Eddie Would Go began popping up all over the Hawaiian islands and throughout the surfing world, Eddie Aikau was proving what it meant to be a "waterman." As a fearless and gifted surfer, he rode the biggest waves in the world; as the first and most famous Wa...

In his own words, Occy tells the complete, remarkable story of his spectacular rise, terrifying fall and miraculous rebirth.'Occy was always a missile going hyperspeed, about to blow up at any moment. - it's true of so many highly intelligent or gifted people . . . All of his passion was put into his surfing.' Kelly Slater, eight-time world championChild star at sixteen, ranked third in the world at seventeen, winner of the Pipeline Masters at nineteen - Ma...

Written by one of the most revered surfers of his generation, Gerry Lopez's Surf Is Where You Find It is a collection of stories about a lifetime of surfing. But more than that, it is a collection of stories about the lessons learned from surfing. It presents 38 stories about those who have been influential in the sport — surfing anytime, anywhere, and in any way. Lopez, an innovator in stand-up-paddle (one of the fastest growing water sports in the world), now shares his stories ...

This in-depth, photo-packed look at the history and culture of surfers is "meticulously researched, smartly written . . . required reading" ( Outside Magazine).Matt Warshaw knows more about surfing than any other person on the planet. After five years of research and writing, Warshaw, a former professional surfer and editor of Surfing magazine, has crafted an unprecedented, definitive history of the sport and the culture it has spawned.Wit...

Surfing is sixteen-year-old Iris's world, and when the ultra-talented Zeke walks into her life, it soon becomes her passion.Over one amazing summer, as she is drawn into his sphere, she experiences love, new friendships, but also loss, with an intensity she never dreamed of.But is Zeke all he seems? What hides beneath his glamorous and mysterious past? When Iris decides to try for her own surfing success, just as her ex-boyfriend comes back into her life, she will test her ...

Laird Hamilton has been hailed as the world's greatest big-wave surfer. His first book, Force of Nature, allows readers a rare glimpse inside the unique philosophy that has created his circumstances, and not the other way around. After all, this is a man whose biological father abandoned him shortly after he was born; whose first job was working on a pig far; who dropped out of school in eleventh grade. And then the career decision: surfer. Though earning enough to pay the rent as...

180° South takes readers behind the scenes of the film, 180° South, made by Chris Malloy, to learn more about the people who made the original overland journey to Patagonia in 1968, and the repeat journey over ocean and land 40 years later. The book includes stories of events and experiences that inspired Chris Malloy, Yvon Chouinard, and Doug Tompkins to choose paths committed to saving what's left of the wild world. Open it anywhere and enjoy the photographs by the worl...

The Girl's Guide to Surfing delivers all a girl needs to score the wave of her choice. The surfing population has recently exploded, and women are in the water more than ever. For all these hearty souls, author Andrea McCloud delivers down-to-earth instruction and indispensable advice. Find out what kind of surf equipment is specifically right for women and how to get it. Learn how to read local breaks and tides for catching the right wave at the right spot. Get the lowdown on sur...

Whether you live near the ocean or can only dream about being out in the water, you can achieve those sun-kissed locks and cheeks, that stellar physique, and the no-holds-barred spirit of the quintessential surfer girl. Get in the swim with this one-of-a-kind guide to all things surfer, which will answer your questions, including:•How can you find a surf break that's right for you?•Why wear a leash and what does it mean to be goofy footed?•How early in the morning d...