Some Surprising Facts from Waves and BeachesA tide is actually a long wave, having a period of 43,000 seconds (12 hours and 25 minutes) and a wave length half the circumference of the earthThere is no such thing as undertow, but rip tides are very realThe combination of the celestial mechanics of earth rotation and gravitation, the sun’s radiation, and the resultant action of wind on the surface of the earth’s oceans raises waves and drives...

The Bestselling Classic Updated for Surfers, Sailors, Oceanographers, Climate Activists, and Those Who Love the SeaFirst published in 1963 and updated in 1979, this classic was an essential handbook for anyone who studies, surfs, protects, or is fascinated by the ocean. Willard Bascom was a master of the subject and included a wealth of information, based on theory and statistics, but also anecdotal observation and personal experience. It brought to the general pub...