Scratching the Horizon presents a bitchin' love letter to sand and sea, and a spirited inside account of life with the "first family" of American surfing.In 1956, Dorian "Doc" Paskowitz stepped away from a successful medical practice and began a lifelong surfing odyssey that grew to include his wife Juliette, and their nine children. Together, the Paskowitz clan lived a vagabonding bohemian existence, eschewing material possessions in favor of intangible r...

Jay Moriarity was a big wave surfer whose positive spirit, relentless dedication, and respect for his sport earned him the admiration of the entire surfing world. Although, he lost his life just one day before his 23rd birthday, he is still an inspiration to not just the surfing community, but to countless people that he met in his life. This book examines his life, but more importantly, it also examines Mavericks and surfing; to understand his life, it's important to understand ...

With grit, poetry, and humor, Peter Heller, acclaimed author of The River and The Whale Warriors recounts his remarkable journey of discovery—of surfing, an entirely new challenge; of the ocean’s beauty and power; of the strange surf subculture; of love; and, most of all, of how to seek adventure while crafting a meaningful life.Author of the New York Times bestselling novel The Dog StarsWinner of the National Outdoor Book...

Fed up with teenage life in the suburbs, Jaimal Yogis ran off to Hawaii with little more than a copy of Hermann Hesse's Siddhartha and enough cash for a surfboard. His journey is a coming-of-age saga that takes him from communes to monasteries, from the warm Pacific to the icy New York shore. Equal parts spiritual memoir and surfer's tale, this is a chronicle of finding meditative focus in the barrel of a wave and eternal truth in the great salty blue.

The long-awaited autobiography of one of Australia's surfing legends.On the surface he was Tom Carroll, dreamer, cheeky grommet, brilliant surfer, Australian sporting hero, fitness fanatic, businessman, family man, big wave charger. Inside turned the terrible wheel of drug addiction, part family curse, part legacy of the footloose surf culture he’d done so much to legitimise. Tom’s family and friends struggled with him, kept his secrets, and looked on in anger and ...

In this meditative memoir—a compelling fusion of Barbarian Days and the journals of Thomas Merton—the author of Saltwater Buddha reflects on his "failing toward enlightenment," his continued search to find meaning and a greater understanding of grace in the world's oceans as well as everyday life.Born to a family of seekers, Jaimal Yogis left home at sixteen to surf in Hawaii and join a monastery—an adventure he chronicled in Saltwater Buddha. Now, in his...

A no-holds barred memoir by Gary 'Kong' Elkerton: champion surfer, world class party animal, and, in his own words, 'a half-mad ball of pure aggression'.In the world of pro-surfing, personalities don't come any bigger than Gary 'Kong' Elkerton. Born in Ballina and brought up on a prawn trawler, Gary took to surfing when school, discipline and other conventions failed him. Cutting a swathe through the industry, living the life, getting the girls, taking the drugs - it all added up to...

Written by one of the most revered surfers of his generation, Gerry Lopez's Surf Is Where You Find It is a collection of stories about a lifetime of surfing. But more than that, it is a collection of stories about the lessons learned from surfing. It presents 38 stories about those who have been influential in the sport — surfing anytime, anywhere, and in any way. Lopez, an innovator in stand-up-paddle (one of the fastest growing water sports in the world), now shares his stories ...

Nat's Nat has sold 45,000 copies in both hard and soft cover everywhere in the world. In surfing biography's it is the standard that others are judged by, no other surfing bio comes close to that. It has Brutally honest, written from the heart, using diaries that his mother had inspired him to complete. Nat provides insight into why surfers are the way they are - in recounting his most personal feelings and experiences he invites the reader to see why committed surfers have a very differen...

An inspirational tale of overcoming the odds to become world champMick Fanning might only be 28 but he already knows how a lot of things feel that most of us never will. How does it feel to lose a brother? Win a world title? Rip your hamstring muscle clean off the bone? Weave through a zippering Superbank barrel for 20 or 30 seconds or paddle over the ledge at places like Pipeline and Teahupo? Have scoliosis so bad you can't get off the floor? Address the NSW state...

"Takes us to a place of almost mythic power and tells a story that unfolds like a long ride on a killer wave . . . compellingly written." —Sebastian Junger, New York Times–bestselling authorRising from the depths of the North Pacific lies a fabled island, now submerged just fifteen feet below the surface of the ocean. Rumors and warnings about Cortes Bank abound, but among big wave surfers, this legendary rock is famous for one simple (and massive) reason: ...

This biography of legendary Hawaiian surfer Eddie Aikau is "a homespun homage to a modern-day folk hero" ( Outside Magazine).In the 1970s, a decade before bumper stickers and T-shirts bearing the phrase Eddie Would Go began popping up all over the Hawaiian islands and throughout the surfing world, Eddie Aikau was proving what it meant to be a "waterman." As a fearless and gifted surfer, he rode the biggest waves in the world; as the first and most famous Wa...